Making wine and growing grapes in Ontario isn't glamourous. The hours are long, the work is physical and there's no undo button or second chances to fix a whole year's worth of work. In short, it's hard work with a lot of responsibility and little feedback other than seeing the bottles move off the shelf and into consumer's hands. While there's kudos from fellow winemakers, accolades from critics and awards, there's still very little official recognition of the industry's efforts by the Ontario government. But that's beginning to change thanks to Lieutenant Governor David C. Onley who handed out the third Lieutenant Governor's Wine Awards earlier this year.
Two years ago Lt.-Gov. Onley began honouring the efforts of Ontario winemakers with an awards ceremony inspired by the now decade old B.C. Lieutenant Governor's Wine Awards. The idea was, and still is, to recognise the all their hard work with a set of awards for the best tasting Ontario VQA wines released that year regardless of vintage or varietal. The way it's done is by gathering a panel of some of Ontario's top wine critics, educators, sommeliers and winemaking talent to taste the wines submitted. Although they're are few wine awards honouring Ontario wines, this one is beginning to stand out. It's the combination of official recognition by the government and calling on top palates from all different areas if the Ontario wine industry who are committed to only awarding a wine if it is truly amongst the top tier of all wines released—225 wines were submitted by 65 wineries this year and only 12 wines and 10 wineries received awards. This is about awarding the epitome of excellence that can be produced from the culmination of Ontario's terroir and winemaking talent.
One of the things that came across during the awards presentation was Lt.-Gov. Onley's genuine love of Ontario wine. Prior to handing out the awards he mentioned that he enjoys local wine with his meals and often gives bottles as gifts to visiting dignitaries. But what's even more rewarding for the local wine industry is that he has demonstrated a desire to get know its personalities on deeper level than just enjoying their work via the glass.
Prior to the awards this year Lt.-Gov. Onley and a group of VIPs visited two of the award winners, Huff Estates and Exlutet in Prince Edward County—the previous year he visited Niagara wineries. What initially struck Lt.-Gov. Onley was their remarkable visual contrast. On the outside Huff is a prototypical modern Ontario winery with sleek lines and the contemporary architecture of glass and concrete sitting against the natural landscape. It even boasts a small hotel and art gallery on the estate. It's very much reflective of owner and passionate wine lover Lanny Huff who made his money in the plastics industry, but wanted to build a legacy where his heart lies in his childhood home of Prince Edward County. Exultet, a diminutive winery in the South Eastern corner of Prince Edward County and housed in a retired cheese factory, is a big visual contrast. Built nearly 140 years ago it has a tranquil air melding into the bucolic county landscape and co-owner and winemaker Gerry Spinosa's quiet old school approach. Spinosa, who runs the winery with wife Lia, is very much a believer that hard work by hand and attention to detail in the vineyard and cellar makes all the difference. The Spinosas moved to Prince Edward County to start a winery not only hoping to follow a love, but also to escape the hectic pace of the city and settle in a quiet place to raise their two sons. But get to know the people behind them and you'll find Huff and Exlutet are much more alike than their appearances would suggest.
What ties these two very different-looking wineries together is that they're exploring the potential of a young and bourgeoning wine region and are passionate about producing the best wines possible. That commitment to excellence is also a thread linking every winery that received an award this year or the previous two no matter what the size or visage.
This year's awards also saw a slight update. Pulling from the axiom there's no great wine without great grapes Lt.-Gov. Onley also invited the grape grower to share in the honour. That's an other welcome and overdue distinction that other awards should follow because when you complement local winemakers about their wines their responses are often some slight variation of following: the reason why the wine is good is because of the quality of the grapes, not because they're doing anything exceptional in the cellar.
Another promising theme of Lt.-Gov. Onley's address was the development of the next generation of local winemaking talent. He half-jokingly mentioned Spinosa's sons who have taken an active interest in the family business and with their father's help produce a pretty tasty sub-label of their own called Knucklehead, despite being a decade away from drinking age. He also acknowledged the significant role Niagara College has played in making the awards a reality by hosting the judging and helping with the logistics. Over the last decade its Winery and Viticultural Technician Program and Brock University's Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute have played a critical role in fostering a new generation of homegrown winemaking and viticulture talent. The level of local wine-growing and winemaking education has never been higher and that's translating notably in the glass. That's why three years ago was an ideal time for Lt.-Gov. Onley to launch awards celebrating winemaking and grape growing excellence in the province.
Post-ceremony Lt.-Gov. Onley and staff held a reception where the wines were available to taste and winemakers and growers were able catch-up amongst their peers. Congenial catch-ups will be a bit more of a rare sight during the next couple of months, which will see all of Ontario wine country busy working long hours for this year's harvest. But they'll be happy doing it because they're passionate about producing the best wine possible. The possibility of making a future Lieutenant Governor award winner and getting to do it all again probably doesn't hurt either.
Below here is the list of this year's winners and a few thoughts on each wine.
Wines Tasted
2007 Huff Estates Cuvée Peter F. Huff
Price: $39.95
Availability: Winery
This sparkler displays a fantastic combination of graceful floral note and the rich depth that comes from long ageing on the lees (four years) using the traditional method. You immediately notice the notes of intensely perfumed, but not heavy tasting, black cherry, lemon zest and serviceberry— all good hints of its Pinot Noir roots as a Blanc de Noir. But what brings you back for a second sip are the rich yeasty and toasty brioche notes that are only earned through time on the lees (spent yeast cells). With a fine creamy mousse of tiny bubble and that focused Prince Edward County acidity to balance against the richness, this is a great bottle that showcases the region's ability to make brilliant bubbles.
2008 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve 2008 Riesling
Price: $30
Availability: Winery or LCBO Vintages 643361
Henry of Pelham is one of the oldest wineries in Niagara and over the years they have continually produced some brilliant and age-defying wines. It's still very early, but this one is shaping-up to be one of them. It's currently straddling the line between classic youthful Niagara Riesling flavours of: lime cordial, lemon drops and apricot, and the hints of more mature flavours to come like: white tea and bergamot orange. But what really excites is the tension between its youthful lively acidity and crush rock minerality, and the beautiful slightly weighty (but not heavy) texture, which is as satisfying as bowl of homemade chicken soup.
2010 Southbrook Whimsy! ‘201’ Cabernet Franc
Price: $34.95
Availability: Wine Club exclusive as of Aug. Contact the winery for availability.
The Southbrook team are big fans of Cabernet Franc. This one in particular is the personal project of winemaker Brian Hamilton who made this wine using his favourite southern block of estate biodynamic Cabernet Franc and aged in three of his favourite French oak barrels. That love and affection shows with a classic Ontario Cabernet Franc profile. There's a beautiful cool climate cuvée of: damsons, raspberry, currant, blueberry and the earthy-sweet-smoky combination of freshly lit cigar. It's bright and elegant yet it shows some true depth especially with a touch of Merlot adding some structure and tanninic grip.
2010 Rosewood Natural Fermentation Reserve Merlot
Price: $36
Availability: Winery
While Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc get most of the attention when it comes to local reds, Ontario Merlot quietly carries on as one of the province's most widely planted red varieties and a top single varietal. Despite a place on the A-list, no Merlot had ever won a Lieutenant Governor's Wine Award before this one. The reason probably lies in Ontario Merlot's youthful tendency to show its highly structured and tannic side rather that its soft and fruity side. When you're the butt of many jokes for your easy-going nature, you'd probably be overly eager to be taken seriously too. But this Merlot doesn't show any hang-ups and is comfortable enough to display both its sides. On one side there's juicy black plum, cassis, vanilla-raspberry cream and boysenberry. But there's also an edge to it with nutmeg spice, mocha, a touch of smoke, some bright freshness and just enough tannins to create structure without dominating the whole package.
2010 Malivoire Stouck Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Price: $29.95
Availability: Winery
The grapes for this Cabernet are from Malivoire assistant winemaker Dan Stouck's family vineyard, which is on a particularly warm and flat spot of the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation with heavy clay soil. In a warm year like 2010. that makes for a naturally low-yield and small but flavourful berries—a winning recipe for great Cabernet Sauvignon. In keeping with its cool climate origins this one isn't heavy extracted, overly-oaked or mouth-puckering with its tannins. There's a combination of ripe sun-warmed black cherry, blackberry and black currant, as well as touch of nutmeg, vanilla and warm black earth on the finish. It's fresh fruit driven—there's no raisined or stewed tastes here—keeping it bright and elegant.
2010 Konzelmann Vidal Icewine
Price: $8.00 for 50 ml Bottle
Availability: Winery
One of the early Niagara estates with a beautiful Lakefront property, Kozelmann's strength has always been aromatic whites. In that corner of Niagara they ripen slowly over the season thanks in large part to the cool lake breezes. This Vidal Icewine is a perfect example of that with a lovely tropical-stone fruit combination, orange marmalade and honied apricot. On the thick and viscous side, this is a lusciously indulgent Icewine.
2008 Peller Signature Series Riesling Icewine
Price: $70 for 375 ml Bottle
Availability: Winery
Peller has always produced an exceptional line-up of Icewine and this 2008 follows in that fine tradition. With a beautiful tropical combination of mango, apricot preserves, peach jam, honey and candied Meyer lemon peel, this a gorgeous Riesling Icewine. The best part is its combination of higher natural acidity and less sugar than a typical Vidal Icewine, giving it an indulgent, but not syrupy feel. In fact, after finishing your first taste you may want another, which is the hallmark of a well-balanced Icewine.
2011 Exultet Estates ‘The Blessed’ Chardonnay
Price: $40.00
Availability: (Sold out) Winery
The 2009, 2010 and 2011 Ontario vintages were about as different as they come in the wine world, but for Exultet the one commonality is that its Chardonnay continues to standout as one of the province's best. It seems the combination of their property and co-owner and winemaker Gerry Spinosa's careful approach in the vineyard is producing distinct, remarkable, award-winning Chardonnay. This 2011 vintage may be the best yet as it combines the strengths of the previous two vintages. It possesses concentrated flavours of apricot, tangerine, pineapple and caramelised pear that are reminiscent of the initial vintage in 2009, and seamlessly weaves them together with elegant floral aromas like the 2010 with hints of: cantaloupe and orange blossom. Still, Spinosa's most remarkable talent is his deft hand with the barrel. A spicy nutmeg and a distinct nutty-kernel flavour come through on the finish enhancing the overall experience without overpowering, just like a well-garnished dish. But where this Chardonnay really separates itself is its wonderful texture. It's like cashmere in it that it's luxuriously rich and comforting. But at the same time it never feels overly indulgent as it showcases the county's greatest strength—a taught tension provided by lively acidity and an electricity of crushed limestone minerality. It's sold out now but make sure you get on the list for the 2012.
2010 Stratus Syrah
Price: $48
Availability: Winery
This is a Syrah that has you enchanted from the second you bring your nose to the glass. It doesn't get much prettier than the perfume of fresh cracked Tellicherry peppercorns, spring cherry blossoms, the season's first wild strawberries and plump ripe blackberries. But what takes this Syrah to another level is the secondary layers that reveal themselves if you're patient enough to give it some time in the glass. There's black slate, a hint of smoke and a touch of that musky meatiness that calls out for the best lamb you can get your hands on to complete the experience. Couple that all with a silk texture, smooth tannins and just the right touch of balancing acidity to keep things lively, and you've got a benchmark for Niagara Syrah.
2010 Tawse Carly’s Block 2010 Riesling
Price: $31.95
Availability: (Sold out, 2011 available at winery)
From old wines on the home Cherry Avenue vineyard, this is Tawse's flagship Riesling. Fresh and vibrant, this vintage brings a combination of green apple, lemon zest and white grapefruit before finishing on a lingering chalky mineral note. Balanced and just off-dry with a fresh acidity, this is an a truly enjoyable Riesling.
2010 Stratus Chardonnay
Price: $55
Availability: Winery
This is an opulent, round and ripe Chardonnay that was picked very late in the warm 2010 vintage. Once picked it was barrel fermented in all new French oak and then put through 100% malolactic conversion. The grapes bring waves of roasted pineapple, floral peach blossom, mandarin and starfruit. Those combine with butterscotch, honey, vanilla, sweet cream butter and oak spice with a warm almost hot finish courtesy of the winemaking. If you're looking for a bold all out Chardonnay with a soft voluptuous feel that match a rich dish that's big on flavours like vanilla-poached lobster with a tropical salsa, this is your bottle.
2010 Tawse Meritage
Price: $59.95
Availability: Winery
This is Tawse's best meritage yet and a red blend that is reflective of winemaker Paul Pender's preference for the elegant and fresh. Mostly Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, it delivers damsons, black raspberries, black currant leaf and dark chocolate cover açaí berries before finishing on the earthy-spicy combination liquorice, cigar box and vanilla. It's classically cool climate from a warm vintage with neither the tannins, acidity or feel dominating the balance or distracting from the fruit.
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